February 27, 2019 By King
Backstage, makeup artists are the picturesque poets of every fashion show. Whether subtle or statement looks, beauty is something that we can all look to on the runway with a hope of recreating, even if the couture gown is beyond reach. Inspiring trends that filter into glossy shoots and product campaigns, right down to our everyday makeup, these artists really define the looks that transcend seasons. From Pat McGrath’s fearless finesse to upcoming artist Isamaya Ffrench’s fresh take on glamour, Vogue speaks to the creators about their signature makeup looks, and the expert techniques on how to recreate them.
Marc Jacobs spring/summer 2019 backstage. Image: Kevin Tachmann/Marc Jacobs
Trademark: Glowing skin
As seen at: Marc Jacobs SS19, Alexander Wang, Tom Ford, Sonia Rykiel and Prabal Gurung
Track record: Renowned for high-gleam skin, Marc Jacobs’s beauty ambassador Diane Kendal first created a cosmetics line for Calvin Klein in the 1990s and has worked on countless campaigns and Voguecovers since.
How to recreate the look: “Select the right moisturiser, one that will provide an emulsion of hydration and hyaluronic acids,” Kendal tells Vogue. “Use Vaseline or Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream to highlight the cheekbones. An icy-white highlighter powder on tear ducts, Cupid’s bow and down the nose bridge can create the illusion of dewy skin without using a cream highlighter.”
Erdem spring/summer 2019. Image: Rex Features
Trademark: Painterly eye makeup
As seen at: Erdem SS19, Gareth Pugh SS19
Track record: Val Garland, contributing beauty editor at British Vogue, first blossomed as a makeup artist for early Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood, and is today famed for giving eyes the royal treatment.
How to recreate the look: At Erdem SS19, several models got a flash of full-on colour. Garland combined matching Nars eyeshadow and eye pencil in corresponding colours of either pink, acid yellow, royal blue or forest green. “I take a pencil first and blend it in so I have a waxy base,” she tells Vogue. “I then use a cotton-wool bud to windscreen-wipe across the colour, picking up the pigment and pressing it into the eyelid a few times.” The fall-out from the eyeshadow creates a painterly pop of colour, while “the waxy pencil creates an ombré stain where the pigment from the other colour hasn’t hit”.
Celine fall/winter ready-to-wear 2015-2016. Image: Getty
Trademark: The bright red lipstick
As seen on: Every supermodel from Kate Moss to Iman
Track record: Dick Page came of cosmetics age applying Vaseline to Kate Moss’s eyelids at his first show for Calvin Klein in 1993. Since then, he’s become a colour convert, breaking beauty rules at fashion houses from Alexander McQueen to Marc Jacobs. As Phoebe Philo’s go-to man at Céline, Page was behind the bold blue eye and red lip for AW15.
How to recreate the look: “Make sure your lips are smooth and lightly moisturised with a little lip balm,” Page tells Vogue. “Then take a red lipstick or pencil that you love. Apply with a brush or directly on your lips, blot with a tissue and reapply for deeper colour if you like. Clean up the edges with a Q-Tip and sharpen the outline with a little concealer on a small brush if you want a clear edge. I quite like a strong colour with a soft edge, so sometimes I’ll just buff the edge of the lips with a small fluff brush to slightly blur the outline.”
Brock Collection spring/summer 2019. Image: Kevin Tachmann/Brock Collection
Trademark: Brilliant base makeup
As seen at: Brock Collection SS19
Track record: Superb skin is a signature for Gucci Westman and her Hollywood clan comprised of Jennifer Aniston, Cameron Diaz and Julianne Moore. Hyper-real but street-ready skin has her on call for campaigns from Dolce & Gabbana to Christian Dior.
How to recreate the look: “I always use more than one shade when applying foundation,” Westman tells Vogue. “I want skin to look real and not masked by one colour, so by applying two-to-three foundation shades [using Westman Atelier Vital Skin Foundation Stick] it gives the skin true dimension. Our natural skin has so many colours, we should not be limited to one when applying foundation.” For Brock Collection SS19 she then applied Westman Atelier Face Trace Contour Stick under the cheekbone for definition, bronzer across temples and cheeks with added blusher (Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Blush Stick in Dou Dou and Petal) and Westman Atelier Super Loaded Tinted Highlighter across tops of cheeks and eyelids for a finishing glow.
Rodarte spring/summer 2019. Image: Rex Features
Trademark: Power palette of colours
As seen at: Rodarte SS19 and AW19
Track record: The man behind the most compelling catwalk colourways, Detroit-born James Kaliardos was handpicked by Rihanna for Fenty Beauty as resident artist in her global artist team. And with the looks he’s created for Miley Cyrus and Madonna, he’s the king of pop colour on eyes and lips.
How to recreate the look: Taking inspiration from modern art, at Rodarte SS19 Kaliardos clashed eyeshadow in sky blue (Baby Jane by Nars), screaming yellow (Duoro) or hot pink (Domination), with a bold red lip using Don’t Stop Powermatte Lip Pigment or Jungle Red Lip Liner, both by Nars. Bold pigments have always been Karliardos’ strength, with Rodarte AW19 staying faithful to his signature statement with glossy crimson eyes and lips.
Christian Dior spring/summer 2019. Image: Getty
Trademark: Standout eyeliner
As seen at: Dior SS19, Dior Haute Couture SS19, Dries Van Noten SS19
Track record: As current creative and image director for Christian Dior makeup and former creative director of Chanel Makeup, Belgian-born Peter Philips has strong pedigree. He was the man behind the golden freckles at Dior Haute Couture 2017, and the clever use of eyeliner for the SS19 shows.
How to recreate the look: At Dior’s SS19, Philips was inspired by dancers after rehearsal, with their glowing skin and leftover eyeliner. He applied kohl liner (which he warms up with a lighter to make the colour more intense) directly to the lower lash waterline and smudged. “I ask the girls to squeeze their eyes closed just after I apply it so it looks like it’s been there for a while, like day-after makeup,” he tells Vogue. A further 10 models had a specific look inspired by the show’s choreographer, dancer Sharon Eyal. Philips drew clusters of graphic squiggles—based on a look he calls her “eye choreography”—using Diorshow Pro Liner Waterproof in black or anthracite shades.
For his punk Pierrot eye at Dior Haute Couture SS19, he used Diorshow On Stage Liner in black matt around the eye and drew a line under the centre of the lower eyelid to the tip of the cheekbone and blurred any sharp edges using black eye pencil.
Oscar de la Renta spring/summer 2019. Image: Getty
Trademark: Cut-glass contours
As seen at: Moschino SS19, Altuzarra, Brandon Maxwell, Alberta Ferretti, Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren
Track record: The French master of maquillage, Tom Pecheux is the catwalk contour craftsman for everyone from Chanel to Yves Saint Laurent. A former pastry chef, he kicked off the 1990s with Tom Ford’s campaigns for Gucci.
How to recreate the look: Inspired by a heatwave at Altuzarra SS19, Pecheux layered beachy, peachy warm shades from apples of cheeks to brow bone. While at Oscar de la Renta, for “Moroccan desert vibes” he swept Hyper Real Glow Palette in Shimmy Peach by M.A.C over the top of cheeks and used Studio Fix Sculpt and Shape Contour Palette under the cheekbones to contour.
Valentino spring/summer 2019. Image: Getty
Trademark: Metallic lips
As seen at: Valentino SS19
Track record: Game-changing makeup artist Pat McGrath first developed a cosmetics line for Giorgio Armani in 1999 before taking her fearless finesse to the runways of Prada and Miu Miu. Her cutting-edge techniques have captivated designers from Versace to Saint Laurent, and since creating her own makeup line, Pat McGrath Labs, in 2015, the Gold 001 pigment has reached cult status.
How to recreate the look: McGrath’s statement lip is now accessible to all via her eponymous makeup line. The kits include pots of glitter particles that you can the apply with your finger over rich pigmented lips. For those wanting to finesse the golden cupid’s bow, practice makes perfect, so reach for a lip brush and dab where the bow dips in the centre of the upper lip-line.
Halpern spring/summer 2019. Image: Rex Features
Trademark: Glitterbug wings
As seen at: Halpern SS19 and AW19
Track record: The artist behind Rihanna’s British Vogue and Kendall Jenner’s Vogue Italia covers, Isamaya Ffrench is otherwise known for ultra-smeared lipstick, embroidered faces and teeth tattoos. The current kingpin of anti-makeup, with clients including Madonna and SS19 campaigns for Tom Ford and Gucci, the former children’s face painter has been listed in Forbes 30 under 30 for art and culture.
How to recreate the look: At Halpern’s SS19 show, she drew a hollow black wing using M.A.C.’s Pro Longwear Fluidline Gel Liner in Blacktrack before filling the shape with eyelash glue and pressing in glitter. An updated version came for AW19, using tissue-thin sheets of gold leaf.
Chanel haute couture spring/summer 2019. Image: Getty
Trademark: Graphic eye
Seen at: Chanel Haute Couture SS19
Track record: Lucia Pica has been cutting a swathe as Chanel’s global creative makeup and colour designer since 2015—creating sharp cat eyes in a spectacle of shades.
How to recreate the look: At Chanel Haute Couture SS19, Pica smudged a waxy blue eye crayon (Stylo Ombre et Contour in Bleu Nuit) onto eyelids before blending with a flat eyeshadow brush. She then created depth with navy blue matte shadow on top) from Les 9 Ombres, Édition N°2 Quintessence). The blue crayon was then taken along the lower lash line from inner socket and extended upwards at the outer corner, blending again with a flat brush. She added a graphic straight white line using Le Crayon Khôl Intense in 69 Clair above it and mascara to finish.
Rochas spring/summer 2019. Image: Getty
Trademark: Clean-cut eyes
As seen at: Rochas SS19, Missoni SS19
Track record: Modern and minimal, Lynsey Alexander’s spring-clean faces with intricate eye framing has won her campaigns from everyone from Calvin Klein to Christopher Kane. At Rochas SS19 she drew jaunty winged eyes, while Missoni saw metallic eyeshadow in the inner corners of the eyes only.
How to recreate the look: Alexander’s delicate winged eyeliner is drawn to flatter the shape of the eye. For those wanting to create a subtle, daytime look, try building a frame around the eye with metallic eyeshadow—seamlessly blend silver and bronze into the skin with a cream shadow.